INCI Name
Retinol, Polysorbate...
Functions
3 Roles
Sustainability
5/10
Category
actives
What It Does
This is a stabilized retinol complex combining pure retinol with Polysorbate 20 (a mild nonionic surfactant for solubilization) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene, a lipophilic antioxidant). The 50% encapsulation in cyclodextrin creates a protective molecular cage that shields the notoriously unstable retinol from oxidation, light, and heat degradation while enabling controlled release upon application. Formulators choose this variant because it offers significantly improved stability compared to pure retinol, allowing for longer shelf life and maintained efficacy, while the cyclodextrin encapsulation also helps reduce the irritation potential typically associated with retinol by modulating its delivery into the skin.
Technical Properties
Ionic Charge
nonionic
Molecular charge type
Viscosity Effect
neutral
Impact on formula thickness
Ingredient Compatibility
Known Interactions
Benzoyl Peroxide oxidizes and deactivates Retinol on contact. These must never be in the same formulation.
Retinol and L-Ascorbic Acid both require low pH but Retinol is unstable in acidic conditions. Using both in the same formula reduces efficacy of both actives. Separate into AM (Vitamin C) and PM (Retinol) products.
Retinol combined with Glycolic Acid significantly increases irritation potential. The low pH required for Glycolic Acid (pH 3.0-4.0) destabilizes Retinol. Use in separate products.
Retinol is destabilized by the low pH required for Lactic Acid efficacy (pH 3.5-4.0). Combined use increases irritation without proportional benefit. Use in separate products.
Mandelic Acid requires low pH (3.0-4.0) that destabilizes Retinol. While less irritating than Glycolic Acid, the pH conflict remains. Use in separate products.
Retinol and Salicylic Acid together increase irritation risk. Salicylic Acid's optimal pH (2.5-4) destabilizes Retinol. Best used in separate routines.
Copper peptides and Retinol operate through competing pathways (copper promotes collagen synthesis while retinol increases cell turnover). Combined use may increase irritation and reduce peptide stability.
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) can accelerate Retinol photodegradation. If combining in a day product, use encapsulated Retinol or a photostabilized Avobenzone.
Sustainability Profile
Sustainability Score
Biodegradability
inherently biodegradable
Source
mixed
Feedstock
Retinol from synthetic or fermentation sources, Polysorbate 20 from plant-derived fatty acids and petroleum-derived ethylene oxide, BHT from petroleum
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Quick Reference
- Full INCI Name
- Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHT
- Common Name
- Retinol 50C
- Category
- actives
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