actives

Acide ascorbique (E300)

Acide ascorbique (Vitamine C)

antioxidantph adjusterskin protectant

INCI Name

Acide ascorbique (E3...

Functions

3 Roles

Sustainability

7/10

Category

actives

What It Does

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the purest and most bioavailable form of Vitamin C used in cosmetics, a water-soluble compound naturally found in citrus fruits and many vegetables. It is highly prized for its potent antioxidant activity, its ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase, and its role in stimulating collagen biosynthesis, making it a cornerstone active in brightening and anti-aging formulations. Formulators must account for its notorious instability — it oxidizes rapidly when exposed to light, air, and alkaline pH — which requires careful formulation at low pH (below 3.5), use of opaque or airless packaging, and often combination with stabilizing co-antioxidants such as ferulic acid or tocopherol.

Neutralizes damaging free radicals
Protects skin from environmental stress
Prevents formula oxidation
Supports anti-aging benefits

Technical Properties

pH Range

2.5-3.5

Optimal working range

Ionic Charge

anionic

Molecular charge type

Viscosity Effect

neutral

Impact on formula thickness

Foaming Ability

none

Lather generation

Ingredient Compatibility

Works Well With

nonionic surfactantshumectantsferulic acidvitamin E (tocopherol)niacinamide (at low concentrations)alpha hydroxy acids

Avoid Combining

oxidizing agentsheavy metal ionsalkaline pH ingredientsniacinamide (at high concentrations, risk of niacin flush)cationic ingredientsperoxides
Compatibility analysis powered by OpenMix — open-source formulation science

Sustainability Profile

Sustainability Score

7/10

Biodegradability

readily biodegradable

Source

mixed

Feedstock

Primarily produced via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose (often derived from corn or wheat starch), though fully synthetic routes also exist.

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