INCI Name
Acide ascorbique (E3...
Functions
3 Roles
Sustainability
7/10
Category
actives
What It Does
Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the purest and most bioavailable form of Vitamin C used in cosmetics, a water-soluble lactone found naturally in citrus fruits and leafy vegetables. It is highly prized for its potent antioxidant activity, ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase, and its role in stimulating collagen biosynthesis, making it a cornerstone active in brightening and anti-aging formulations. However, its notorious instability — it oxidizes rapidly upon exposure to air, light, and heat — presents a significant formulation challenge, requiring low pH environments (below 3.5), anhydrous systems, or encapsulation technologies to maintain efficacy.
Technical Properties
pH Range
2.5-3.5
Optimal working range
Ionic Charge
anionic
Molecular charge type
Viscosity Effect
neutral
Impact on formula thickness
Foaming Ability
none
Lather generation
Ingredient Compatibility
Works Well With
Avoid Combining
Sustainability Profile
Sustainability Score
Biodegradability
readily biodegradable
Source
mixed
Feedstock
Industrially synthesized via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose (typically derived from corn or wheat starch), though it can also be extracted from natural sources such as acerola cherries or rosehips.
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Quick Reference
- Full INCI Name
- Acide ascorbique (E300, Vitamine C)
- Common Name
- Acide ascorbique
- Category
- actives