actives

Acide ascorbique (E300, Vitamine C)

Acide ascorbique

antioxidantph adjusterskin protectant

INCI Name

Acide ascorbique (E3...

Functions

3 Roles

Sustainability

7/10

Category

actives

What It Does

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the purest and most bioavailable form of Vitamin C used in cosmetics, a water-soluble lactone found naturally in citrus fruits and leafy vegetables. It is highly prized for its potent antioxidant activity, ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase, and its role in stimulating collagen biosynthesis, making it a cornerstone active in brightening and anti-aging formulations. However, its notorious instability — it oxidizes rapidly upon exposure to air, light, and heat — presents a significant formulation challenge, requiring low pH environments (below 3.5), anhydrous systems, or encapsulation technologies to maintain efficacy.

Neutralizes damaging free radicals
Protects skin from environmental stress
Prevents formula oxidation
Supports anti-aging benefits

Technical Properties

pH Range

2.5-3.5

Optimal working range

Ionic Charge

anionic

Molecular charge type

Viscosity Effect

neutral

Impact on formula thickness

Foaming Ability

none

Lather generation

Ingredient Compatibility

Works Well With

nonionic surfactantshumectantsferulic acidvitamin E (tocopherol)alpha hydroxy acidsniacinamide (at low concentrations)

Avoid Combining

strong oxidizing agentsalkaline pH ingredientsheavy metal ionscationic surfactantsbenzoyl peroxideretinoids (in high concentrations)
Compatibility analysis powered by OpenMix — open-source formulation science

Sustainability Profile

Sustainability Score

7/10

Biodegradability

readily biodegradable

Source

mixed

Feedstock

Industrially synthesized via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose (typically derived from corn or wheat starch), though it can also be extracted from natural sources such as acerola cherries or rosehips.

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