actives

Acide ascorbique (Vitamine C, E300)

Acide ascorbique

antioxidantph adjusterskin protectant

INCI Name

Acide ascorbique (Vi...

Functions

3 Roles

Sustainability

7/10

Category

actives

What It Does

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the pure, L-isomer form of vitamin C, a water-soluble compound naturally found in citrus fruits and many vegetables. It is the most bioactive and potent form of vitamin C used in cosmetics, renowned for its ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase activity, stimulate collagen production, and neutralize free radicals — making it a gold-standard brightening and anti-aging active. Formulators value its efficacy but must contend with its notorious instability; it oxidizes rapidly at higher pH levels, in the presence of light, air, or metal ions, requiring careful formulation at pH below 3.5 and use of protective packaging to maintain potency.

Neutralizes damaging free radicals
Protects skin from environmental stress
Prevents formula oxidation
Supports anti-aging benefits

Technical Properties

pH Range

2.5-3.5

Optimal working range

Ionic Charge

anionic

Molecular charge type

Viscosity Effect

neutral

Impact on formula thickness

Foaming Ability

none

Lather generation

Ingredient Compatibility

Works Well With

nonionic surfactantshumectantsferulic acidvitamin E (tocopherol)alpha hydroxy acidsniacinamide (at low concentrations)

Avoid Combining

strong oxidizing agentsalkaline pH environmentsheavy metal ions (copper, iron)niacinamide (at high concentrations, may cause yellowing)peroxidesUV light (causes oxidative degradation)
Compatibility analysis powered by OpenMix — open-source formulation science

Sustainability Profile

Sustainability Score

7/10

Biodegradability

readily biodegradable

Source

mixed

Feedstock

Primarily produced via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose derived from corn or other plant starches; also found naturally in citrus fruits and other plant sources.

Make something with this

Pitch an idea.
We'll help you build the brand.

Start your idea