Polysorbate 20 (Polysorbate 20) - emulsifier, surfactant, solvent

INCI Name

Polysorbate 20

Functions

3 Roles

Sustainability

6/10

What It Does

Polysorbate 20 is a polyethoxylated sorbitan ester of lauric acid, created by reacting sorbitol with lauric acid and then ethoxylating the result. With its high HLB value of 16.7, it excels at solubilizing essential oils, fragrances, and lipophilic actives into water-based formulations, making it particularly popular in micellar waters, toners, and light serums. Formulators favor it for its mildness, stability across a wide pH range, and ability to create clear solutions without the heavy feel of traditional emulsifiers.

Stabilizes oil-water mixtures

Creates elegant cream textures

Enables layered formulations

Improves ingredient distribution

Technical Properties

HLB Value

16.7

Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance

pH Range

5.0-7.0

Optimal working range

Ionic Charge

nonionic

Molecular charge type

Viscosity Effect

neutral

Impact on formula thickness

Foaming Ability

low

Lather generation

Ingredient Compatibility

Known Interactions

DIHYDROXYACETONEUse Cautionperoxide_oxidation

Ethoxylated surfactants (Ceteareth-*, PEG-*, Polysorbate-*, Poloxamer-*) accumulate peroxides over shelf life via air oxidation of the polyoxyethylene chain. The resulting peroxides degrade DHA, accelerating off-smell and producing orange tones. For DHA formulations, prefer non-ethoxylated emulsifiers: Polyglyceryl-* esters (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate), Lecithin, Sucrose Stearate, Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate + Sorbitan Olivate).

Compatibility analysis powered by OpenMix — open-source formulation science

Sustainability Profile

Sustainability Score

6/10

Biodegradability

readily biodegradable

Source

mixed

Feedstock

sorbitol (plant-derived) and lauric acid (coconut/palm), ethoxylated with petroleum-derived ethylene oxide

Related Ingredients

Similar emulsifiers to explore

PEG-150 Distearate

Polyethylene Glycol 150 Distearate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer Copolymer

Ceteareth-20

Cetearyl Alcohol Ethoxylate

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (and) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Sodium Polyacrylate

Emulsifying Wax Complex

Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

Olivem 1000

Available Variants

12 forms available

100% Liquid

100% Liquid (Naturally-derived)

100% Liquid, HLB 16.7

100% Pure Liquid

100% Pure Liquid, Cosmetic Grade

Cosmetic Grade Liquid

Liquid

Liquid, Cosmetic Grade

Standard

100% Pure Liquid

100% Pure Liquid (cosmetic grade)

Pure Liquid (cosmetic grade, HLB 16.7)

Quick Reference

Full INCI Name: Polysorbate 20
Common Name: Polysorbate 20
Category: emulsifiers

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