actives

Acide ascorbique

Acide ascorbique (Vitamine C)

antioxidantph adjusterskin protectant

INCI Name

Acide ascorbique

Functions

3 Roles

Sustainability

7/10

Category

actives

What It Does

Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the purest and most bioavailable form of vitamin C used in cosmetics, a water-soluble lactone naturally found in citrus fruits and many vegetables. It is highly prized by formulators for its potent ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase activity, stimulate collagen production, and neutralize free radicals, making it a cornerstone active in brightening and anti-aging serums. Its primary formulation challenge lies in its notorious instability — it oxidizes rapidly upon exposure to light, air, and alkaline pH — which is why it requires careful encapsulation, low-pH formulations (typically below 3.5), and opaque or airless packaging to maintain efficacy.

Neutralizes damaging free radicals
Protects skin from environmental stress
Prevents formula oxidation
Supports anti-aging benefits

Technical Properties

pH Range

2.5-3.5

Optimal working range

Ionic Charge

anionic

Molecular charge type

Viscosity Effect

neutral

Impact on formula thickness

Foaming Ability

none

Lather generation

Ingredient Compatibility

Works Well With

nonionic surfactantshumectantsferulic acidvitamin E (tocopherol)chelating agentsacidic pH stabilizers

Avoid Combining

oxidizing agentsheavy metal ionsalkaline pH environmentsniacinamide at high temperaturesperoxidescationic ingredients
Compatibility analysis powered by OpenMix — open-source formulation science

Sustainability Profile

Sustainability Score

7/10

Biodegradability

readily biodegradable

Source

mixed

Feedstock

Primarily produced via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose (often derived from corn or wheat starch), though fully synthetic routes also exist.

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