INCI Name
Acide ascorbique
Functions
3 Roles
Sustainability
7/10
Category
actives
What It Does
Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is the purest and most bioavailable form of vitamin C used in cosmetics, a water-soluble lactone naturally found in citrus fruits and many vegetables. It is highly prized by formulators for its potent ability to inhibit melanin synthesis by blocking tyrosinase activity, stimulate collagen production, and neutralize free radicals, making it a cornerstone active in brightening and anti-aging serums. Its primary formulation challenge lies in its notorious instability — it oxidizes rapidly upon exposure to light, air, and alkaline pH — which is why it requires careful encapsulation, low-pH formulations (typically below 3.5), and opaque or airless packaging to maintain efficacy.
Technical Properties
pH Range
2.5-3.5
Optimal working range
Ionic Charge
anionic
Molecular charge type
Viscosity Effect
neutral
Impact on formula thickness
Foaming Ability
none
Lather generation
Ingredient Compatibility
Works Well With
Avoid Combining
Sustainability Profile
Sustainability Score
Biodegradability
readily biodegradable
Source
mixed
Feedstock
Primarily produced via the Reichstein process or fermentation from glucose (often derived from corn or wheat starch), though fully synthetic routes also exist.
Related Ingredients
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Quick Reference
- Full INCI Name
- Acide ascorbique
- Common Name
- Acide ascorbique (Vitamine C)
- Category
- actives